Brow Micropigmentation and Melanin Rich Skin - My Top Tips & Considerations

Brow Micropigmentation and Melanin Rich Skin - My Top Tips & Considerations

- Some Artists Find Melanin Rich Skin Terrifying 

It’s our job as artists to understand the skin, the tones and the types, in order to adapt our approach to each client. Our approach may have many variables depending on the client such as; implantation method, technique, brow style, hair stroke spacing, pigment selection or aftercare to name but a few.

If you don’t grasp the above basics, sadly you will end up turning away clients in fear of delivering substandard work or finding yourself in a legal battle.


- Melanin Rich Skin Types & Traits

The scale we see most commonly used is the Fitzpatrick Scale. The Fitzpatrick skin phototype is a system used to describe a person's skin type in terms of response to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) exposure.

The richest in melanin are described as:

Fitzpatrick V - Brown

Fitzpatrick VI - Dark Brown to Black

The problem we have as Micropigmentation Artist is that our clients DO NOT fall into these categories as easily as suggested. Therefore it’s vital as artists that we understand the undertones of each client and also consider how light penetrates to skin (ie how it shows due to the depth of implantation).

You’ll also find that clients with melanin rich skin tend to be oilier (not always). There is a huge plus-side for clients with oily skin, it tends to go hand with ageing well. The higher sebum level, typical means more radiant / youthful skin. 

In my experience in tattooing melanin rich skin, it can be a little thicker, along with oilier. Meaning that this combination will lead to me taking a little more time implanting pigment.

Oilier skin can also effect the retention of pigment. Meaning clients with melanin rich skin may need to avoid styles such as hair stroke brows or the artist MUST ensure they leave more spacing between hair strokes. This will allow for migration and avoid blurring / merging of hair strokes. 

So it’s important to be patient when implanting pigment, as it can take longer. It must be layered correctly and never forced. 

Personally, my preference is to look for alternative styles for those with oilier complication regardless of Fitz scales; such as powder or ombré, the longevity for the client is much better.


- Pigment Selection

Ok, my top tip here is NEVER EVER USE BLACK PIGMENT!… I promise you that it will go BLUE once healed under the skin. Incorrect pigment selection on either Fitz I or a Fitz 6 can be equally as devastating. (Contact me for our FREE Clinita Colour Chart)

Look for deeper browns, that either have warmth in them or always ensure you add a little warmth. Hair colour can guide you a little, as clients with melanin rich skin do not tend to have Black Hair, but do not rely on hair colour as an indicator for pigment selection.


- Healing & Aftercare 

The skin healing process is typically the same regardless of melanin. That being said, clients with melanin rich skin can at first appear like they have lost melanin from the skin. Post scabbing, the skin can appear to be a greyish or whitish tone and to be honest when I first experience this…. It was scary! 😬

The skin just needs time to heal and the melanin will return if the procedure was carried out correctly and of course the client aftercare was adhered to.

The big thing of course being DO NOT PICK THE SCABS! I always remind my clients that this is THEIR responsibility to adhere to aftercare, as melanin rich skin is at a greater risk of developing permanent hypopigmentation if the scabs are removed prematurely. 

I personally only ever use Ozon-E for all of my procedures that break the skin. Ozon-E is skin-protecting, contains antioxidants and is a regenerating balm. High in concentration of Vitamin E Acetate, Ozonized Olive Oil, Shea Butter, Hypericum, and Aloe Vera. 

That being said, you only need to use Ozon-E as a moisturiser. It is not a skin barrier and should never be applied generously on oilier skin. If do this, the moisture and the natural sebum levels will prevent the wound from breathing. 



Brow Pigments


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